SUNDARBAN : THE ANCIENT HUMAN SETTLEMENT

The Sunderban region was once, even in near past, thought to be of lesser Importance in archaeological viewpoint. James Ferguson, the eminent geologist in British India was of opinion that any “swathe of land in between The Ganges, The Bhagirathi and The Padma was nonexistent in about 5000 years ago.” Kanongopal Bagchi in pre independence era and Edwin. H. Pascoe in sixties of the last century also suggested that the lower Gangetic alluvial plain was not at all inhabitable land back in 3000 years. But the fact is that numerous  ancient archaeological remains and artefacts were unearthed from different parts of the Sunderban area during the last century. All these perchance discoveries have proved that the Archieaological conjecture about this delta region are mostly misplaced.

(Sundarban Pratna Sangrahasala, Gobordhanpur)

The early opinions was challenged for the first time when historian Kalidas Dutta first established the antiquity of the Sunderban region. His contemporary historian Satish Chandra Mitra coeval with Dutta, also did research- work on the area albeit mainly of Eastern Bengal. In later years, Paresh chandra Dasgupta, H. D. Sankalia viz. were still reluctant to acknowledge that antiquity. But, with the passage of time, they were rather bound to refresh their earlier views and admitted the existence of developed urban  infrastruicture in the past much remote than the era as suggested by the prevailing notion.

(Sundarban Pratna Sangrahasala, Gobordhanpur)

Of course, William Willcock admitted that, once upon a time, planned dwelling places were in existence in south 24 Parganas ( Ancient system of irrigation in Bengal ). R. G. Oldham in his “Treaties of Geology of India  :  Stratigraphical and structural geology “ stated that in his geological survey in this region,  he found thick  stratum of pebbles and conglomerated sand. These findings, he indicated, proved  that  this land was scarred with small stone hills in the ancient past which disappeared  later due to land subsidence.

(Sundarban Pratna Sangrahasala, Gobordhanpur)

The Sunderban witnessed so many evolutionary ups and downs owing to  natural causes like receding sea water level, changes of courses of the rivers and huge amount of alluvial deposition during the past 4000 years.. As a matter of fact, the southern Bengal including the Sunderban had been affected with so many serious earthquakes of different scale, land subsidence, tsunamis, furious cyclones and deadly floods from circa 2000 years or more to last 500 years. One may even keep aside ancient past and wonder at the documentary evidence which shows that the landforms and environment of the region had undergone see changes in last 500 years :. More than  65  huge cyclones, 5 very deadly earthquakes and at least 12  heavy floods were recorded in documents( from 1852 AD). Notably, in recent past a furious cyclone reminiscent  of a deadly tsunami which swept over this area way back in 1737 AD had brought disastrous changes in geographical map of Southern bengal including Kolkata. These types of natural disasters sank the relics of earlier civilisations more than once under soil. This is the cause for which we find various ruined ancient structures and relics of pre Mauriyan, Mauriyan, Shunga, Kushan, Gupta or,Pala-Sena ages in Sunderbans of both the parts of the divided bengal.

Dhanchi Vanadevi, North Surendranagar, Gobardhanpur

Dhanchi Vanadevi, North Surendranagar, Gobardhanpur and its surroundings of Pathar pratima Island house archaeological treasure trove on its shores. Commonfolks of these areas are dependent mainly on fishing. Two fishermen, the Sahu brothers ( Bishwajit Sahu and Bimal Sahu ) came across huge artefacts while engaged in their profession. They were not at all concerned early with archaeological characteristics of the materials. Yet they somehow at least managed to percept that, the materials they collected might be very old age and had historical importance. They collected over 15000 artefacts dated from 3 BC. to 3 AD in their  forty years long effort. Their collection includes large number of animal figures like ram, bull, buffalo, deer, bird, fossilised bones,  stone beads, huge terracotta pot shards and  terracotta figurine, believed to be that of Mother Goddess.

Dhanchi Vanadevi, North Surendranagar, Gobardhanpur

A terracotta seal, inscribed with Brahmi scripts of fourth century AD. has been found from this region. The seal has the word ' Saketnagar ' inscribed on it and it may be the ancient name of present Dhanchi .  According to the eminent epigraphist and ancient numismatist Suresh chandra Bhattacharya, Saket was a man of moneyed class or might be a reputed merchant. The seal, it has been inferred, was made in between third century CE to early fourth century CE.

Dhanchi Vanadevi, North Surendranagar, Gobardhanpur

This area of South twenty four parganas with close proximity of the Bay of Bengal, had once been a rich habitat from third century BC. Recent archaeological findings from the area indicate that, there existed regular civilised society even a thousand years ago. Amal Ray Pradhan, the Joint Director of the State Archeology Department stated that the relics of continuous occupational habitats from third century BC. to the Pala age are found in that area. Ancient trade emporium might possibly be situated here. Archaeologists are of the openion that this habitat had overseas commercial connection with the trade centres of Arakan , South East Asia and Eastern Indian coast. North - Central Indian towns were its hinterlands through river navigation.

Rupendra Kumar Chattapadhayay , the professor of Archaeology of the Kolkata University surveyed earlier in this area. He stated, this area, beyond question, was very rich habitat in early and medieval age. There might be a port town also. There is hardly any doubt of prevailing prolonged direct connection  among this area, the outer world and inland trade  system from circa third century BC. to tenth century AD. The port Tamralipta was also linked certainly to this coastal trade centre.

Archaeologists hypothises on the historical link for some coins found from this area.  A coin having inscription of a standing king, bow and arrow in hand, has been found with the letter “S”  ( ' স ') is inscribed  beside and one female deity is on the reverse side. Susmita Basu Mazumder, the professor of the department of Ancient India History and Culture of the Kolkata University  thinks, that the coin belonged to Samatata. One side of the coin is adhering to the  Gupta tradition and other is in conformity with the Kushan tradition. The coin proves direct linkage between present South East Bangladesh and this area of the Sunderban. She informs that, the ox mounted ( Vrishavahana ) on coin is contemporary to Sasanka.The  basalt stone used to make (Now broken) image of Vishnu, once found from here was believed to be brought from Rajmahal via river route. Domestic utensils were also unearthed from here.

Ancient ruins of religious shrines at Mandirtala, extinct shrines at Banashysmmnagar,ruins of twin shrines at Deulbari in Kulti, extinct Buddhist vihars of Haroa, Harinarayanpur, Nalgora, Kankanadighi, Jain traditional relics etc, are indications of rich trade and traders community and there rich composite religious cultures in this region. Various remnants of religious sites still to be noticed here bear testimony of the impetus offered through financial enterprises and other endeavors of the merchant communities. So many relics, images, coins, architectural remains found near Jater Deul and its vicinity corroborates the fact. Tamralipta and Chandraketugarh as chief commercial nerve centers and ports might be then considered the steering forces of economy of Bengal.

    Research: Santanu Roy and  Mr.Kalyan Chakraborty.

    Photography: Santanu Roy. 

   Sources :

     1. "Ancient system of irrigation in Bengal"- William Wilcock.

     2. "Geology of  India: Stratigraphical and structural geology" -R.G.Oldham.

   3.https://frontline.thehindu.com/arts-and-culture/heritage/settlement-of- history/article5486821.ece

4.https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolkata/civilisation-in-sunderbans-traced-to-mauryan-era/articleshow/53483794.cms

 5. https://www.business-standard.com/article/beyond-business/meet-biswajit-sahu-a-fisherman-at-day-and-an-archaeologist-by-night-118120701156_1.ht

6.https://eisamay.com/west-bengal-news/civilisation-in-sunderbans-traced-to-mauryan-era/articleshow/53486187.cms

    7. “Archaeology of South Twenty Four Parganas” : -Kallol Das Gupta.

    8.  “Archaeological Discovery in Bengal”- Paresh Chandra Dasgupta.

    9. “West Bengal District Gazetters 24 Parganas.” - Barun De.

 10. “Varendra Research Society’s Monographs (No.4 & 5)"–Kalidas Dutta.Varendra Research   Society (Rajsahi-1930)

  11. “ The Ganges Delta” – KanangopalBagchi.

 12. lastly, we are very much grateful to Mr. Amitava Gupta, Mr. Debi Sankar Mirdha, and Mr. Suvendu Bhattacharjee, without their cordial help and co-operation we could not proceed to develop this article.

An Abandoned Mosque at Bajua.

 

Recently we have gone through an information published in one of the leading newspapers of West Bengal that an old ruined heritage ‘Masjid’ in Bajua village (Block- Goghat, Sub-division-Arambag, District. Hoogly) is being kept clean by a Hindu family, for the last 27 years, enabling both Hindu and Islamic community to pay homage at this religious relic.

Barring this unique example of communal harmony, the relic is also notable for some historical and artistic factors. It was declared as a state archeological asset since 1980. It was constructed between 1531 to1532 with the patronage of the-then Bengal Sultan Nusrat Shah. (These details are gathered from the Persian plaque erected on the wall of the Masjid).

Almost 500 years back, this was a grand structure having a single dome with a high a boundary wall and a majestic entrance, in spacious 10 Acre land.  Time had not spared this structure; it went to public oblivion at least a quarter century back and had become a place full of ruined rubbles and green vegetation – a paradise for reptiles.

The Hindu family used to dry their paddy in this premises. To safeguard their life from the reptiles, they started cleaning the thick vegetation and  tried to up-keep the place regularly to up-keep the place ( with their limited resources), just like a holy structure.  Villagers irrespective of their religion, resumed to flock together to this newly revived place of worship.

Apart from its legacy and current information, another remarkable aspect is the brilliant detail of the burnt brick on the walls of this relic-the finest flower and grape motif of terracotta. Terracotta-Bengal’s own artistic signature is abundantly available in the Hindu temples, but seldom found in the newly constructed Islamic mosques. We talk of Terracotta temple of Bengal, but hardly ever speak of the terracotta Mosques, The hidden architectural treasures of Bengal.

Bengal as the land of amalgamation of art and religion, found patrons even among the Muslim rulers who used the fine Terracotta work of Hindu artisans on their mosques. Bengal’s rich alluvial soil, washed downstream by the mighty rivers, helped to get enough clay, that was fired and burnt to make Terracotta bricks and plates that went into making of these mosques.

At the time, clay was the construction material of choice in Bengal as stone was not available in this region. With the collapse of the Delhi Sultanate in the mid-14^th century, a number of independent kingdoms emerged, including the Sultanate  of Bengal (1338 CE). The rulers of the Bengal Sultanate built a number of mosques across Bengal between 1310 CE and 1550 CE, during which the art of terracotta decoration reached its zenith. As per Historian Nihar Ghosh and his book Islamic Art of Mediaeval Bengal Architectural Embellishments (2003) the “panels on the walls, doorways and spandrels including niches are sometimes profusely ornamented by terracotta panels and curved brick work “. There are three unique ornamented  Terracotta mosques in Hooghly district- Adi Saptagram, Pandua and Tribeni .( http://astoundingbengal.blogspot.com/2015/02/oldest-surviving-monument-in-bengal_17.html)

You might not be a history buff , you might not be very keen to know the tit bits of one Bengali village society but if you think of some nameless ferociously talented Bengali artesian,who had delivered something unique then please visit this structure (approximately 90 km road distance from Kolkata). Through it is a declared state heritage site, in all probability with the continuing amnesia,  this might perish from the landscape very soon. That will be a blow to all heritage lovers.

Research. : Santanu Roy and Abhijyan Basu.

Photo courtsey : Tathagata Sen and Santanu Roy.

 

Sources:

1.    “ Hoogly Jelar Deb Deul” by Sudhir Kumar Mitra.

2.    “ Hoogly Jelar Itihas” by Sudhir Kumar Mitra.

3.    “ Pashimbanger Sanskriti” By Binoy Ghosh.

4.    https://www.anandabazar.com/amp/west-bengal/howrah-hooghly/arati-pramanik-keeps-mosque-clean/cid/1277372

5.    An article published in the magazine “Alokito Banladesh” under the title “Hoogler Bajua masjid” by Dr. Khondakar Alamgir. https://www.alokitobangladesh.com/print-edition/civilization-and-culture/82593/%E0%A6%B9%E0%A7%81%E0%A6%97%E0%A6%B2%E0%A6%BF-%E0%A6%9C%E0%A7%87%E0%A6%B2%E0%A6%BE%E0%A6%B0-%E0%A6%AC%E0%A6%BE%E0%A6%9C%E0%A7%81%E0%A7%9F%E0%A6%BE-%E0%A6%AE%E0%A6%B8%E0%A6%9C%E0%A6%BF%E0%A6%A6

6.    Lastly, I am very much grateful to Mr. Tathagata Sen, Mrs.Sarmistha Dutta and Mr.Kalyan Chakraborty , without their cordial help and co-operation we could not proceed to document this mosque.

JATAR DEUL

 

Jatar Deul, a Orissa Style masonry temple located at the gateway of famous Sundarban, Raidhigi under South 24 Parganas district of West Bengal is an ASI declared heritage structure. Today the temple is connected with nice bituminous road and within a decorated garden but a century back; the same place was infested with ferocious animals, reptiles and insects.

The South 24 Parganas is boasts of several archaeological remains that have been lying scattered in different places. Out of which Jatar Deul remained always been a place of interest for people studying ancient civilization. It is to be noted that Kankandighi and Jata at Raidighi police station in South 24 Parganas had been rich in archaeological remains. In the village of West Jata, there exists the ancient and lofty Jatar Deul temple.

During the river route survey of lower Ganga by English surveyor Renel (1764-77) first glimpsed this structure within a dense forest . During the colonial drive of deforestation and reclamation of Sundarban land and resident lease-holders, land–owners located the Jatar Deul in a deplorable condition. The 1868 Asiatic Society Journal (December) contained the first photograph of the structure snapped by Swainho- an Englishman, who also orated the structure to be of Buddhist origin.

The historical significance of Jatar deul was first highlighted by Mr. Kalidas Dutta in 1930. Kalidas Dutta’s intensive surveys highlighted a wealth of archaeological evidence in brick remains preserved in mounds; temple ruins stone and bronze images of Buddhist, Jain and Brahmanical deities. “Regarding its present name of Jatar deul two legends are prevailing ” as Mr. Kalidas Dutta writes “ …One is that this tract was frequented by a tiger which had a jata, or a clotted fur. The second one which is referred to in the List of Ancient Monuments in Presidency Divisionis that the tower held a Siva image known as ‘Jatadhari’ " Mr. Kalidas Dutta continues “ The only historical evidence that we know of is a copper –plate said to have been discovered at the site and referred to in the List of Ancient Monuments , Page-3 as follows – “The deputy collector of Diamond Harbour reported in 1875 that a copper plate discover in a place a little to the north of Jatar Deul fixes the date of the erection of this temple by Raja Jayanta Chandra Chandra in the year 897 of the Bengali Sak era corresponding to A. D.975. The copper plate was discovered at the clearing of the jungle by the grantee Durga Prasad Choudhury.”  The inscription is in Sanskrit and the date as usual was given in an enigma with the name of the founder. Unfortunately no trace is now available to this copper plate nor does the name of King Jayanta Chandra occur in any other known inscription or any other record.”

But modern research showed a continual presence of a dynasty - Chandra (Minor independent kingdoms during the Pala Period) who had ruled in south-eastern Bengal (Vanga & Samata) for about a century and a half from the beginning of 10th century AD. Discovery of quite a few copper plates of the rulers of this dynasty now affords the reconstruction of a connected history of this Dynasty and the history of the South Eastern part of Bengal is now clearer than 50/60 years ago, when only the name of one of its rulers (Srichandra) is known. The epigraphic records now provide clear evidence of a continuous rule of this dynesty for five generations in Vanga and Samatata when the Palas were ruling in Northern and Western part of Bengal and Bihar. The separate political entity of south eastern Part of Bengal under the the Chandras is now firmly established in the history of Ancient Bengal.

Lama Taranatha, The Tibetan Historian, gives prominence, in the history of Buddhism to a long line of kings ruling in Bengal, whose names end in –Chandra and who are specifically referred to as belonging to the Chandra Dynasty. In fact, this is the only dynasty in Bengal, before the Palas to which he has referred in his book. There is no room for doubt of human settlement in the Sundarbans in the early and in the medieval historic periods. It is now widely accepted among the Historians and Archaeologists. The region exhibits an evidence of early settlement in some of its parts. Several political upheavals coupled with natural calamities changed the direction of historical courses in many occasions.

The tower bears a striking resemblance to a similar tower on the South bank of the Ajay River near kenduli, which is known as Ichhai Ghosher Deul. This Ichhai Ghosh is said to have lived at the time of Devpala, the son and successor of king Dharmapala and the Jatar Deul may possibly be ascribed to that age. Earlier evidences show that the Pala rulers Gopala and Devapala conquered a vast portion of Lower Bengal including the territories of the districts under consideration. The Monghyr copper plate inscription of Devpala mentioned that Gopala conquered the earth as far as the sea. Another important territorial division of Ancient Bengal was Vyaghratatimandala. The Khalimpur and Nalanda copper plate inscription mentioned the region of Vyaghratatimandala under pala ruler. This Vyaghratatimandala has been identified as a part of costal Bengal including the present district of South 24  Parganas (Ancient Samatata).

The district of South 24 Pargans as a centre of Buddhism first mentioned in Dakarnava Tantra where it mentioned a pithas like Radha, Dhikkari, Vanlara and Harikela. The Rakshaskhali copper plate inscription mentioned a Buddhist Vihara which situated outside of the village Vahamita (?) called Ratnatraya Mahavihara. The recent archaeological discoveries in lower West Bengal and Bangladesh are firmly indicating that once a rich Buddhist culture prevailed in this locality.

Sincere efforts on the part of the famed researcher and son of the soil Kalidas Dutta and extensive support of A.S.I have helped in renovating the Jater Deul soon after the deforestation of its adjacent areas. Though these efforts have helped in conservation of the temple, its artistic structures and constructional patterns have been largely affected. It however should be remembered that during the first decades of the previous century not much could be done for conservation of archaeological relics in a hostile land like the Sundarbans.

The tradition of local scholastic pursuit of Kalidas Dutta is well continued; another son of the soil Mr. Debishankar Middya establishes a relation between this monument and Ichai Ghosher Deul (Ichai Ghosh a character of Dharma Mangal Kavya) but, unlike Dutta situates it in the late eleventh/early twelfth century CE. He identifies an Iswar Ghosh mentioned in the Ramgunj copper-plate of the eleventh century CE with Ichai Ghosh. Iswar Ghosh is purporated to have established a second capital in Dhekkari. Mr. Mirdha argues for its location in lower Bengal and considers the confluence of Jatoda and Thakuran Rivers to the north of Jata to be the site of Dhekkari. The Deul, according to Mr. Middha , was constructed in the late eleventh century CE, dedicated to the god Sankara or Shiva. With the enthusiasm of local scholars ultimately ASI conducted archaeological exploration and partial parts of the other portions of the enclave came in the view.

Since Kalidas Datta’s writings in the 1930s, Jatar Deul has emerged as the pivot of cultural pride of local scholars who ascribe different religious affiliations to the tower, despite the fact that no image of worship was found at the time of its recovery in the late 19th century. A common perception is that the tower is in the form of a linga (phallus) and a garbhagriha sanctum housing the idol is in the form of a Yoni (Womb).These, together with lotus motifs present on the exterior wall, are interpreted as evidence of linga worship-an intrinsic part of Saivism-practice by those belonging to the trantric creed.

Linga worship in lower Bengal which saw its most classic manifestation in the Jatar Deul.  Mr Sanjoy Ghosh’s (Local Scholar) writings draw rather unconventional practices of a local nathajogi community and the towers construction. The Nathajoc community, who have adopted the title of Debnath, practice Linga worship. Mr. Sanjoy Ghosh links linga worship with tantricism and argues that the duel in the shape of a linga was constructed by a community practicing Tantric Buddhism in Bengal in the eighth century. This community later transformed into the nath community. The prevalence of linga worship in the region is not doubted. However, its association with the Jatar Deul on the basis of its supposed architectural resemblance to the Linga, as Mr. Ghose argues, is not tenable.

The single commonality that emerges from these writings is the agreement that, architecturally, Jatar Deul belongs to the Orissan school of architecture. They reflect the voices local/grass-root scholars of the Sundarbans and south 24 parganas who consist of school Teachers, individuals working in the capacity of governmental employees, and self-employed individuals engaged in a passionate pursuit of past glories of the region.

As historian, Bishnupriya Basak well observes, “We see that since Mr. Kalidas Dutta’s initial scholarship, over the past several decades, a large collection of knowledge has grown among these individuals who are neither residents of the village, nor professing any religious affiliation to the either Shaiva, Tantrik, Buddhist or Jain religions. They claim that they make to lay stake to Jatar Deul stem from intellectual deliberations only.”

Setting aside all this institutional scientific exploration and individual scholastic approach Jatar Deul stood mesmerized its viewers and it stood as it is since 11th Century (as per erected ASI Board). Even if your interest is not exploration of ancient heritage or study of masonry structure you can very well feel the impact of this brick made cylindrical structure.

It emblems- a large number of Bengal aboriginal inhabitants at the gateway of modern mangrove patch of Indian Sundarban, an advance society so far construction technology, commercial resources were concerned, probably a shore-temple within a populace harbour- thriving with sea-trade - then, probably an unprecedented natural calamity, change in land mass and water ways, civilization erased out, mangrove extends its area, oblivion of an original heritage.

Several centuries passed by, the river routing survey of the colonial ruler re-explored it, afterwards the reclamation drive of forest land lead to its re-emergence; today it is an ISI protected heritage structure in independent India.

Jatar Deul clearly throws the challenge to its viewers- are you truly aware of the history of your country?

 

 Research: Santanu Roy and Abhijyan Basu.

 Photography : Tathagata Sen & Santanu Roy

 Sources :

         1.    Antiquities of Khari, Varendra Research Society's Monograph No.3 Rajsahi, Varendra                             Research Sociity, by Kalidas Dutta.

         2.    The History of Bengal By Ramesh Chandra Majumder. Dhaka.

3.    Dynestic History of Bengal by Abdul Momin Chowdhury.

              Chandra Dynasty by A.M. Choudhury. Asiatic Society of Bangladesh.

4.    Pierre-Yves Manguin ;  A Mani ; Geoff Wade (2011) . Early Interactions between South East Asia : Reflections of cross cultural exchange. Institute of South Asian Studies.                     

5.    Nagendra Kr. Singh . Encyclopedia of Bangladesh.

6.    The journey of Kalidas Dutta and the construction of Regional history in pre and post independent Bengal, India. By Bishnupriya Basak.

7.    The dynamics of heritage- making at an archaeological site in South 24
Parganas, Bengal, India. By Bishnupriya Basak.

8.     Ancient History of Bengal : http://dspace.wbpublibnet.gov.in:8080/jspui/ http://dspace.wbpublibnet.gov.in:8080/jspui/bitstream/10689/13287/10/Chapter%20VI-VII_199-237p.pdf

9.    Jatar Deul : Sanskritik Nritattva-er-drishtikon theke ( Jatar Deul : From the Perspective of cultural anthropology) Vivekbarta.

10.  Jatar Deul-er –Itibrittya (Chronicles of Jatar Deul) by Debisankar Middha, Raidighi :Jatar Deul Sanskriti Sangha.

11.  Dakshin Chabbish Parganar Bisrto Adhya and Dakshin Chabbish Parganar  Purakatha by Krishnakali Mondol.https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.265432 

12. Sundarboner Moni Abobahika by Nirmalendu Mukhopadhya

13.  Jatar Deul ek Ananya Sthapatya Kirti By Dilip Ghosh.Suchetana.

14.  Journal of ancient Indian History, Some epighaphical Records of the Mediaeval period from Eastern India, Journal of Ancient Indian History and       Epighaphical discoveries in East Pakisthan By Dinesh Ch. Sarkar.

15.  New Light on the History of Ancient South-East Bengal, by Shariful Islam    Asiatic Society of Bangladesh, Dakha

16. Sundarbaner Saktipith : Chatrobhog By Debishankar Middya.

17. The Temple of Pashim Jata (South 24 parganas, West Bengal.) Sarmila Saha ,Dipartment

       of Historty, Calcutta girls College (Pratna Samisha,2011,ASI)Pratna Samiksha 11 Sharmila Saha.pdf